A Complex Red Bean Stew From Georgia

Lobio, a traditional dish from Georgia, combines red beans with browned and raw onions, garlic and herbs.

Many Americans fall in love with the food of Georgia (the country, not the state) after sampling khachapuri, a savory cheese-stuffed bread often served with a runny egg on top. For others, it’s a plateful of handmade khinkali, the country’s meaty version of soup dumplings.

For me, the obsession started with a humble bean stew called lobio.

I’d heard about lobio from my friend Alice Feiring, who went to Georgia on a research trip to write a book about the country’s ancient tradition of winemaking.

Back in New York, she couldn’t stop talking about the tomatoes, potatoes and beans. Georgia has been famous for its fruits and vegetables, including plums, grapes and pomegranates, for centuries. Many of its crops are still farmed in traditional, not industrial, ways.

The boiled potatoes, she told me, were heartbreakingly profound, with an earthy, clover blossom sweetness.

The tomatoes have never had the bitterness bred out of them, she said, making them especially complex, with a snappy acidity in their ripeness.

And the beans! Mottled red kidney beans boiled until velvety soft and mashed with pungent raw garlic, browned onions and a thrilling-sounding mountain herb called blue fenugreek.

While I couldn’t get my hands on spectacular Georgian tomatoes or those creamy Tushetian potatoes, I could make the beans, or at least try to simmer up something similar.

Alice has a lobio recipe in her book, and the internet has plenty of variations, so I cobbled together a recipe that, while not necessarily authentic, somewhat represented the deeply comforting beauty of the dish.

In Georgia, the word lobio can refer to any kind of bean, from fresh green beans to the many different varieties of dried beans, which are made into stews like this one or mashed into salads often topped with walnuts: a staple ingredient in Georgian kitchens.

When stewed (usually in earthenware crocks), the beans are traditionally served with mchadi — flat cakes of fried, polentalike cornbread — and fresh white suluguni, a strong brined cheese rather like feta. However, thick slices of sourdough and a mild feta or ricotta salata also make great accompaniments.

One thing to note is the (optional) use of two traditional Georgian ingredients in this recipe.

The first is tkemali, a sharp and fruity sauce made from sour plums. Pomegranate molasses, or even a good balsamic vinegar, provides a similarly tangy kick.

And then there’s blue fenugreek, an herb that grows wild in the Caucasus Mountains. You can mail-order it, but the stew is nearly as good without it, so don’t worry about leaving it out (regular fenugreek seeds have a different flavor, so they are not a good substitute). The combination of coriander and black pepper give the dish a backbone of spice, strong enough to stand up to the onions, herbs and hit of pungent garlic.

You can serve lobio as a meatless main dish, or as a side dish with roasted or grilled meats or fish. Either way, its mix of sharp raw onion and soft, sweet browned onion, along with plenty of fresh green herbs, makes it hard to stop eating once you start.

Recipe: Red Bean Stew With Fried Onions and Cilantro

And to Drink …

The ideal accompaniment to this Georgian bean stew would naturally be a Georgian wine, preferably made in the traditional manner, fermented and aged in a qvevri, like an amphora. If you have access to these wonderful wines, saparavi, a dry, sturdy red, might go well and would certainly be in the right spirit. A dry white from Georgia, which may more accurately be described as amber, would also be delicious. It derives both color and tannic structure in the qvevri by macerating and aging with the grape skins. If you can’t find any traditional Georgian wines, other options include a good Cahors, perhaps an Etna red from Sicily or a Ribeira Sacra from Galicia in Spain. Or you could select from the genre known as orange wines, whites made not too differently from the Georgian whites. ERIC ASIMOV

Follow NYT Food on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.

In Other News

fake money

Keywords clouds text link http://alonhatro.com

Dịch vụ seo, Dịch vụ seo nhanh , Thiết kế website ,  máy sấy   thịt bò mỹ  thành lập doanh nghiệp
Visunhomegương trang trí  nội thất  cửa kính cường lực  Vinhomes Grand Park  lắp camera Song Phát thiết kế nhà thegioinhaxuong.net/

Our PBN System:  thiết kế nhà xưởng thiết kế nội thất thiết kế nhà tem chống giả https://thegioiapple.net/

aviatorsgame.com ban nhạcconfirmationbiased.com 
mariankihogo.com  ốp lưngGiường ngủ triệu gia  Ku bet ku casino

https://maysayhaitan.com/  https://dovevn.com/ buy fake money https://sgnexpress.vn/ máy sấy buồn sấy lạnh

mặt nạ  mặt nạ ngủ  Mặt nạ môi mặt nạ bùn mặt nạ kem mặt nạ bột mặt nạ tẩy tế bào chết  mặt nạ đất sét mặt nạ giấy mặt nạ dưỡng mặt nạ đắp mặt  mặt nạ trị mụn
mặt nạ tế bào gốc mặt nạ trị nám tem chống giả

https://galaxymedia.vn/  công ty tổ chức sự kiện tổ chức sự kiện
Ku bet ku casino
Sâm tươi hàn quốc trần thạch cao trần thạch cao đẹp

suất ăn công nghiệpcung cấp suất ăn công nghiệp


© 2020 US News. All Rights Reserved.