Oft referenced by rappers like the late Notorious B.I.G, late 80′s and early 90′s Versace became synonymous with the nouveau rich and affluence of that time.
Designed by the late Gianni Versace, his exuberant silk prints of that era were so in your face they were considered brash and low on taste by some.
I think Gianni’s genius was the actual complexity of what seemed like simple prints. Perhaps in the mix of the gawdy gold medallions, gold chains, foliage and fauna etc lay the blueprint of present day high fashion digital prints.
There are elements to Gianni’s work that are reminiscent of the current hyper digital age led by designers like Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto etc.
Duro Olowu has a knack for creating the most joy inducing designs. His dresses particularly just seem to have the happy gene.
That melting pot of seventies inspired tailoring, his collage patchwork prints, a jubilant mood that could only be inspired by his Nigerian heritage (you almost feel the sights, heady color and bustling sound of Nigeria come through each design) and an instinct on balance.
His designs are timeless and cannot be defined by fashion. Olowu knows what women want, with his dresses in particular exuding an eternal ‘wear me to feel your beautiful best’ sensibility.
That is his special gift, that and the ability to create pure unadulterated ‘forever’ pieces.
For that reason and that unique way with dresses, patchwork and seventies tailoring (sensitively balanced with contrasting print), he is the modern day Ossie Clark.
Video via Fashion Channel.
Patrick Kelly was a lot of pretty phenomenal things.
Noted as the first Black designer inducted into the esteemed French Federation of Fashion and of Ready-to-Wear of Couturiers and Fashion Designers in 1988.
He was also fearless and courageous; this was prevalent not only in his garments (that palette, the joyful embellishment and irreverent use of buttons) but also in his personal life. The Mississippi native had moved from New York (where he had studied at Parsons) to Paris on a one way ticket. Once in Paris Kelly went from selling his garments on the streets to becoming a member of Chambre Syndicale of Ready-to-Wear and Couture, dressing the cream of the crop (Grace Jones and Bette Davis etc) and being stocked in Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel and Bloomingdale’s.
The man who had gone to Paris on a one way ticket as funded by the legendary Pat Cleveland, soon rose to $7.2 million per year business. He turned Paris on her head.
Kelly was wonderful in the sense that while drawing you in with his joyful, unassuming and witty aesthetic he also addressed issues of that time including race.
Look past the bows, buttons and the upbeat tempo his designs (and shows!) exuded and you see incredibly well cut clothes. His fall 1989 interpretation of the cape is testament to that.
Beinspired.
Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons stays light years ahead of the masses. Her gilded glittery sequin wigs of fall 2011 still inspire me now. Each time I think of these wigs I also recall the genius of the half boy, half girl garments in that collection (where elements of male and female were literally chopped in her typical deconstructive way and pieced together).
Sometimes it takes compelling surreal beauty that borders on the mythic to drive a point home. I guess the gold wigs could be male or female. In a Narnia-esque world with half male, half female beings.
Duro’s garments are far more than just a distinct patchwork mix (imagine the coming together of bits from all your favorite garments) colorful prints (usually rare vintage textile). There is an innate knack for pattern cutting, fashion history and a real understanding of proportion.
His woman is self clever (what else would you call her ability to put the unexpected together to create that which is always effortlessly glamorous?), cultured, optimistic and self assured.
I want to be her. Wearing look 11 from his fall 2012 collection be exact. The prints of the trousers and coat have really nothing to do with each (other than a similar color palette) but the Duro girl would not care because her clever eye will no doubt see that they work.
A Duro Olowu piece is special. Each feels like a design from your Grandma’s trunk that has traveled through time, magically staying relevant during every era and referencing so many cultural points.
Stayinspired.
