In a short span of time Bora Aksu, the Turkish, London based designer has wowed the cream of the fashion crop with his eponymously named label. His 2002 post graduate show from the renowned Central St Martin’s MA course received critical acclaim from respected press such as The Independent and The Daily Telegraph.

He also caught the attention of the ARG equation group who he went on to win a scholarship from which financed his debut show at Fashion week the following year.

Autumn/Winter 2003-2004 catwalk collection. Images from Bora Aksu Web site.

Since that debut show, Bora Aksu has garnered further acclaim and has been lauded by the likes of CNN, The Guardian. He has caught the attention of industry leaders such as Suzy Menkes, Dolce & Gabbana to name a few and has won covetable awards such as the TOPSHOP New Generation Award four times.

He has shown consistent prowess in drawing varied inspiration in creating beautiful, well cut, almost seamless garments with an interesting juxtaposition in the soft and hard.

For his Spring/Summer 2004 show where he drew inspiration from duvet covers and tea towels resulting in a decadently feminine collection.

Spring/Summer 2004 catwalk collection. Images from Bora Aksu Web site.

For his Autumn/Winter 2009-2010 line-up he showed a Punk meets Princess collection with collection of Victorian and nomadic references.

Autumn/Winter 2009-2010 catwalk collection. Images from Bora Aksu Web site.

There is a detailed and delicate textured sophistication in his designs that is breath considering the length of his young career.

I am a fan his work and was honoured to interview the talented designer.

1. Hi Bora, Thank you for this interview. I love your work! When did you know that Fashion Design was your calling and what is the general ethos of your label, Bora Aksu?

Thank you so much. I don’t really think there was a time I thought that was it and I wanted to be a fashion designer. It all developed very naturally since I was little. I know it sounds a bit of a cliché but I had been drawing people around me and I always have been enjoying drawings since then.

I think it was my teen years my interest in fashion developed fully and my drawings started turning into fashion illustrations. I guess that’s the time that I was fascinated that these 2D drawings can actually become 3D objects .I believe that fashion for me is a tool to communicate my true self.

It is almost a visual language that enables you to communicate without using actual words.Even though my initial ideas come before practical considerations, during the process of making I use various different tools such as padding, cutting, lining, interfacing, boning and devised numerous construction techniques to build gowns that transformed women into visions of elegance.

It is spontaneous because it reflects what I think, who I am, and how I live.

I cannot do it any other way; what I am is a fashion designer, so the way for me to express a message is to make clothes. When I am making a dress or a jacket, I am actually proposing something: It’s the same with books or movies that take us into other worlds.

2. You have garnered impressive critical acclaim and achievement to date. At your debut London Fashion week show Suzy Menkes was in attendance, CNN hailed that same show that season as “one of the top five shows in London”. Singer Tori Amos bought out your whole Spring/Summer 2005 collection for her ‘Bee Keeper’ tour etc. In addition to all this, you have been the recipient of the TOPSHOP New Generation Award four times. What has been your personal favourite achievement to date and why?

I guess to be able to start doing my own label and still be able to carry on doing what I love doing.

Autumn/Winter 2009-2010 catwalk collection from Bora Aksu Web site.

3. I had the pleasure of attending your Autumn/Winter 2009 show. I was drawn to the detail in each design. From the riveting, to the intricate panelling to the accessories. I noticed Nomadic and strong Victorian influences in the collection. What was your inspiration for this collection? Please also tell us a little bit about the design process for it.

The autumn winter collection is based on the anonymous muses of Victorian artists (in particular Tissot).

The hidden life of these muses and their powerful appearances in the paintings really inspired me. The Victorian details, such as ruffles and pleats became interesting when it’s mixed with punk details. The preparation took around six months and the whole idea is to create a collection were each item speaks for its self.

4. You have an uncanny knack for playing with soft and hard references creating amazing designs. You also use couture like techniques producing exquisite designs. Would you say these are Bora Aksu design signatures?

Yes I would definitely say these are my signatures, although for me creativity is my silent language and even though the tools you use might change the actual language always stay the same.

With fluid materials, I create three-dimensional structures that define my creativity and my own path. I have numerous convictions and seek difficult answers based on body, cloth, and the space between and around them.

My aim in design is to be a perfectionist, which requires tireless efforts on improving a design over many many times. For me the ability to cut the cloth to produce abstract and complex shapes brought to life through experimentation and imagination is what my design language is based on.

My ability to drape cloth, at times directly on a person, also resulted in accidental design ideas, which is at the heart of some of my most important work…
I started out manipulating fabric and draping it on dress forms to achieve a certain shape or silhouette, almost like a sculptor would. If my ‘inspiration’ (idea) passes this ‘incubation’ and ‘evaluation’ phase then I go straight into the actual work.

My collections do not have a well-planned drawing or ‘skeleton’ as their foundation. Sometimes I begin by draping in countless ways and Other times I ignore all this and just do what ‘feels right’ at the time.
I also do like colour resulted in unexpected combinations…

Fabric choice ultimately influences my designs. The drape, texture, color – these are all helpful in molding my ideas. Then the designs are generally altered and manipulated by additional draping. Each fabric works differently under the needle, each pleat or ruffle falls a certain way depending on how you drape it on the dress form.

Spring/Summer 2010 catwalk collection. Images from Bora Aksu Web site.

5. Past collections have seen you pull inspiration from the Seventies, mundane everyday objects such as tea towels, the Victorian era etc. How do you find fresh inspiration for each collection?

I usually start with a thought, idea, a concept, or a visual image. Other times, I will begin with a story line or even a word. I never designed my collections as an abstract statement.

Even though my initial ideas come before practical considerations, during the process of making I use various different tools such as padding, cutting, lining, interfacing, boning and devised numerous construction techniques to build gowns that transformed women into visions of elegance.

It is spontaneous because it reflects what I think, who I am, and how I live. I cannot do it any other way; what I am is a fashion designer, so the way for me to express a message is to make clothes. When I am making a dress or a jacket, I am actually proposing something: It’s the same with books or movies that take us into other worlds.

Whether it’s the past or the present, all my ideas come from what’s going on around me: from friends, music, from street culture, from memories, movies. When it comes to inspiration source I don’t put any boundaries around it. Anything or anyone can be an inspiration to me. It’s usually a big pot of ideas As soon as an idea comes to mind, I like to sketch it out.

6. People Tree Fair trade organisation recently signed a contract with you for capsule collections, please tell us about this collaboration.

People tree collaboration was actually started with a project with Japanese Vogue. It was only a one off design project and the aim was raising awareness through the collaboration.

I really enjoyed the process during this project and it received so well that we started thinking of a long-term collaboration possibility. I am still very amazed with the process of producing fair trade garments and how many people are actually working so passionately to turn my designs into a source for so many people to earn their living in many countries.

I think collaborations are really good in the sense of working with such creative people from totally different fields. I recently completed collaboration with artist Dan Harris on a short film project based on some of my black and white illustrations.

I found the whole process truly different and inspiring. The way Dan sees the colours and movement and of course his technical ability opened a completely new door to me.

I think it’s also very inspiring to work with people who are from different creative fields as they have a total fresh approach to it.
.. Like any creative field, one has to find a balance of the hands on and technical experience.

That’s also one of the reasons I like collaborations very much.

7. If you were not a successful Fashion Designer you would be?

I guess I would be an illustrator if I have the right opportunities given as I really enjoy drawing. I think I am incredibly blessed to be able to do a job that was my hobby. I think it would be such a shame if I had a job that I don’t feel passionate about.

8. Who do you want to see in Bora Aksu and how would you have them wear it?

I actually really enjoy when people around me like friends wear my stuff and mix it with their personality. It’s of course amazing to design for catwalk shows but I think the designs can only become real when real people apply it to their everyday life. And seeing it from outside is such a satisfaction. Again it’s mainly people around me. I don’t have a specific muse but I do get inspired by close friends.

Spring/Summer 2010 catwalk collection. Images from Bora Aksu Web site.

9. What are your goals for the label and where do you hope to see yourself in ten years time?
I just developed a new line called “Bora Aksu cocktail” line. This is a cocktail dress collection with more then one alternative to wear each dress. Thus when you purchase a dress you actually own three dresses as each can be worn in alternative ways.

I really believe in this line and it would be interesting to see where it will go…

In 10 years time if I am being able to still do what I like doing with a dedicated team then I will be more than happy.
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Aksu is incredibly talented and I have a feeling we will be lusting after his designs for decades to come. View more on the designer at his Web site below.

Bora Aksu

Many kind thanks to Bora Aksu for the interview and to Lisa Jordan at BLOW PR.

* Images are Bora Aksu designs from varying seasons from his Web site.