Interviews

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Diary // Ama K. Abebrese Exclusive London & Milan Diary

Sunday, October 2nd, 2011

Ama K. Abebrese is an award winning British TV presenter, actress and producer of Ghanaian origin. She is Africa’s Best Actress for 2011 for the continent;s version of the Oscars, Africa Movie Academy Awards (AMAA).

The formally trained actress and Media Arts and Drama graduate is steadily making a name for herself as she works with the best in African and International talent. Abebrese’s last two movies saw her partner with film maker, Leila Djansiof Turning Point Pictures (winner of the Pan African Film festival and BAFTA LA awards respectively).

In the first Djansi film, Sinking Sands, she plays an emotional lead female role alongside Hollywood based, Haitian actor, Jimmy Jean-Louis in male lead role. In the film she brings to life the story of Pabi, a woman whose life becomes an abuse and violence filled nightmare when her husband is disfigured in an accident. For this role, she won the Africa Movie Academy Award for Best Actress 2011.

The second collaboration with Djansi saw her work with Nigeria’s Omotola Jalade Ekeinde and Hollywood actress, Kimberly Elise. The three lead actresses play three women from different works of life, bound to together by similar pain; the loss of a child. Entitled Ties that bind

Aside from her acting, the recent currently Ghana based, Screen Nation Award 2011 nominated actress, also produces.

I was honored when Ama agreed to document her recent weekend trip to London and Milan.

Day One

On the plane heading to London from Accra, Ghana. Goodbye Ghana, hello London.

Here I am on my street, on my first day back in London.

In between my jam packed schedule I stop to have red wine, gelato and a catchup session with fab Marian at Westfields Shopping Center.

The street becomes the catwalk? Fun impromptu posing in my cheerful Lulu & Red jacket.

Bump into two lovely fans as I dash to my next appointment. The girls are so sweet.

Day Two

Here I am at the airport, en route to Milan for business, shopping and site seeing. Who says pleasure and business cannot go hand in hand? Bye for now London.

Business done. I take in some sites at Duomo. Such incredible architecture.

Two words…Louis Vuitton. Another two words… shopping heaven.

Off to dinner in Milan.I am wearing a dress Maksi and a clutch Sa4a, both Ghanaian designers.

Time for dinner. Love Italian cuisine. Here I am posing with my Sa4a clutch.

Day Three

Football glam! I do the Ghana v Brazil game at Craven Cottage, Fulham with my sister and cousin. Go Ghana!

What stands out to me is, despite the fact that she is in three countries, in three days, she still makes the time for fun; gelato with me, football with her sister and cousin, a spontaneous posing session just because, connecting with excited fans who ran up to her screaming etc.

It goes to show that the actress, who is up for a Screen Nation Award, is always going to be the approachable and warm person I met years ago, however successful she becomes.

Follow her on Twitter here.

Vote for her for Best Actress in the Screen Nation Awards 2011 here.

Many kind thanks to Ama for documenting over such a busy weekend.

Catch up on the Diary series here.

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Emerging Talent // Fyodor Golan

Wednesday, August 24th, 2011


Designers behind FYODOR GOLAN. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

Creative label, FYODOR GOLAN is helmed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman. Fyodor is half Latvian and half Russian and studied at Royal Academy of Arts, Antwerp. Golan is Israeli with German and Moroccan roots. He attended Instituto Marangoni.

Before the launch of their collection in 2010, the duo accumulated work experience with likes of Issey Miyake, Alexander Queen, Raf Simons and Richard Nicol.

Their work features fabric manipulation, leather scarring, conceptual form and hand detailing.

I was honored to interview the 2010 Fashion Fringe finalists.

1. How did the FYODOR GOLAN duo come about?

We met four years ago whilst working for Alexander McQueen and Issey Miyake, we officially launched our brand FYODOR GOLAN in 2010.


FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

2. Given how your diverse your ethnic backgrounds are, how does this affect your work?

It is our DNA. We wanted to explore the differences between us, rather than similarities. Our backgrounds and experiences in life make us who we are inthe present. We illustrate how, completely different individuals from different parts of the world can work and explore this subject. We love different cultures and traditions and illustrate this through our brand.


FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

3. You were 2010 Fashion Fringe finalists. How did you find the experience?

It is a great opportunity to show our work on a bigger scale to a wider audience. Through this Platform we have gone on to meet some of the most important fashion insiders and had a chance to brainstorm. When Roland Mouret came one day to talk to us in our studio we felt his support and advice, and simply exchanged opinions. It was great. These chats are real when sometimes fashion can be so generic. Fashion Fringe gave us an amazing feeling of the first step towards FYODOR GOLAN MAISON, that is what we are striving for.
everything under one roof.


FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

4. You work seemingly embodies an interesting contrast of the regal regency period juxtaposed with the tribal. Would you say this was the case and how would you describe the FYODOR GOLAN aesthetic?

We describe ourselves as Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde. Its the same subject through different perceptions and time. In PAGAN POETRY A/W 11, we were exploring Tribal paganism and Renaissance paganism representing Greek and Roman cultures. We wanted to present symbolism in our work to create substance to a garment. It is not just a dress, each piece embodies a tradition. The use of different materials and textures such as scarred leather and silk tool/organza created an even bigger contrast. Our woman always goes through metamorphoses. She is not afraid to show both her sensitive and strong sides.


FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

5. What inspired your recent collection?

Art and poetry. we started with poems by Charles Baudelaire: Fleurs du Mal combined with flowers and nature by Frida Kahlo and Van Gogh. Its a dark story, about a nymph who finds her support in nature and becomes a part of it.

6. There is strength in your collection that suggests that the FYODOR GOLAN woman is a strong individual. Who are your muses?

She is definitely not afraid to be seen, but she is also a woman who might carry a fragile soul and expressive spirit.

FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

7. Lady Gaga wore one of your designs recently. Who else would you like to see in your work?

Isabelle Huppert, Ronit Elkabetz, Nicole Kidman and Carey Mulligan, all women who embody a rock attitude.


FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

8. What are your favorite pieces in your autumn winter 2011 collection?

Leather scarred gown and the third look gathered tulle and feather top with neoprene high waist trousers.


FYODOR GOLAN fall winter 2011. Image courtesy of FYODOR GOLAN

9. There is a keen and innovative use of leather in your work. What draws you to it?

It is very sexual and also very organic. Fyodor: “I always look to my skin and am fascinated by how the blue and purple veins create these intricate lines underneath, how white it is. Leather is the most organic and real fiber there is.”

10. What can we expect from the FYODOR GOLAN label in the near future?

We will further explore the deepest corners of the mind. We want to continue this intimate dialogue between our garments and our clients. Right now we are working on creating e-commerce, aspiring to show every season on schedule whilst growing our international stockists, but
most of all – we want to keep on challenging ourselves.

More on their work here.

Many kind thanks to Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman.

More in the Emerging Talent segment here.

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Focus On // Pippa Small

Monday, August 8th, 2011


Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

Jeweller Pippa Small is as much known for designs that encapsulate a hand made organic feel (featuring precious and semi precious stones) as she is known for her social consciousness.

With a background in Anthropology, the jewellery designer has seamlessly forged her interest in human rights and the alleviation of poverty with her continued efforts at reviving old traditional jewellery methods.

Barneys New York started selling her jewellery about 14 years ago. Small opened her first London based store in 2007, this was followed by one in Brentwood, Los Angeles.

Her work has seen her work at Bamford, Gucci with Tom Ford and Chloé under Phoebe Philo. Collaborating with the Nicole Farhi and Christina Kim at Dosa.

Small’s interest in social consciousness has seen her work in Central America and Southern Africa, exploring jewellery making methods and reviving old traditional skills. In Bolivia she worked with the world’s first registered Fairtrade gold mine. The designer also works with fairtrade company, MADE in Kiberia, Kenya and with prestigious charity Turquoise Mountain in Afghanistan.

Given her tireless efforts and improving Human rights among minorities, it is no wonder she was made an Ambassador of the Human Rights Organization in 2008.

It was an honor to interview the inspiring jewellery designer.


Design by Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

1. Hello Pippa, thank you for honoring Mariankihogo.com with this interview. You studied Anthropology and went on to achieve a Masters in Medical Anthropology. How did you move from this, into the foray of professional jewellery design?

Thank you so much for asking me!

That is a difficult question because the answer is I just don’t know!! Life has a strange way of pulling you subtly in directions you are unaware of. For my Masters thesis I went to Borneo to do some research on mental illness and its meaning and understandings in Sarawak.
Before I went I was already very interested in Human Rights and the issues in particular of indigenous or Tribal minorities rights, I was an active member of Survival International, a charity I am very proud to say I am an ambassador to now – the issues of land rights, cultural rights, language rights and indigenous knowledge were fascinating to me and I started to work with a local grass roots NGO in Sabah in Northern Borneo – it was a fascinating time.

Meanwhile… I have always made jewellery even as a child I strung beads and buttons, shells and pebbles around my wrist, I was a great believer as a child in the power of stones and the importance of memory associated through material things and the comfort and strength they gave.

As I grew the designs of the jewellery I was making became more defined and instead of the primitive tangle of my talismans I started to work with different materials, buying a small drill and working with shells and drilling and tumbling rough gems and stringing them together. I started to make jewellery for a few friends and then a shop asked for some and so it slowly and very organically grew.

My life now is full of contrasts – going from Afghanistan to New York fashion week, from the slums of Nairobi to showrooms on Bond Street – I find it all fascinating facets of human life…

The interest in the jewellery grew and I started to work in India to produce it and loved my life creating in India with such talented craftsmen and in time I was able to marry the interests of working with communities and the jewellery fashion world by collaborating with craftsman all over the world and bringing their work to other markets and new appreciations.

2. You have worked with a host of designers including the likes of Tom Ford while at Gucci and Phoebe Philo at Chloe. What has been your most memorable collaboration to date?

Working with Gucci was such a thrill, I remember when I got the call to come in I was convinced they had made a mistake and were talking to the wrong person, I even said so in the interview! I had no design training or technical drawing ability – had never worked with a big company – I was humbled by how open and encouraging they were. At first I was to work in their studios but they quickly saw that my creativity flourished in other environments and sent me back to India to create freely without confines of briefs or specs.

I remember the day my first collection was being viewed by Tom Ford in Florence, there was always the reverence of a god around him and everyone was running around and whispering and such tension as he went to inspect it, I was then brought in the room and he was so kind and said he loved it! There was a palpable sigh of relief from everyone! I learned so much working in a team and in a big company – it was wonderful.

Working with Christina Kim of the American label Dosa was wonderful too – to learn from her thoughtful and immaculate creative process. We travelled all over the world together designing collections of jewellery for her beautiful clothing company.

Design by Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

3. In your work you have always seemingly championed human rights, alleviating poverty and fair trade. How important has this been to the Pippa Small brand?

It is the essence of it in a sense, it is where my heart is where my interests lie, and I am very passionate about this area. Jewellery and craft are universal, every peoples in the work create and decorate and adorn. I believe very firmly that working with communities to empower and provide an income; to raise the often battered self confidence of people who have been marginalised and persecuted, through their creativity; to work with them on traditional designs and materials and be able to create something that is valued and shown and sold in the West helps them see that what they do and make and who they are is beautiful.

The recent certification of the fair trade gold in Bolivia has been a triumph and I am so proud, I was in Bolivia a few months after the certification and so pleased to see what this means to the miners and the environment around the mines in terms of the recycling of the mercury and the fair pay for the gold with a premium that goes into the community around the mine and improving conditions for the miners.
Working with MADE was also a joy – learning about recycled materials and seeing things we throw away in this country becoming beautiful pieces of jewellery.

4. Your designs have seen you work with charity, Turquoise Mountain in Afghanistan. Please tell us a bit about this; what it involves and how it came about?

I was asked to go and teach in the newly set up school of jewellery that Turquoise Mountain had set up in Kabul nearly 4 years ago. The aims of Turquoise Mountain were to do architectural restoration in the old part of Kabul, and to make schools that would revive and train young people through the older masters the traditional craft of Afghanistan, wood work, calligraphy, ceramics, and jewellery. The students learn English, business skills, and have teachers from all over to provide them a broad skill base in design and technical abilities.

I was also asked to design a collection that could be sold in the west to open a market for TM and the young Afghan graduates – I have worked with Javid Noori and his workshop in Kabul for 4 years now. I try and draw on inspiration from central Asia, and the silk roads to make sure it is relevant to the craftsman’s history and culture. We use all the gems available in the country – the beautiful Lapis Lazuli from the ancient mines of Badakshan and emerald from Panshir and tourmalines and aquamarines. It has been so rewarding now the first lot of women graduates have joined the workshop and to see the work in shops like Barneys NY and we hope to continue to grow their collaborations with other designers and open other markets.

The most wonderful part of it has been the friendships and relationships that have grown from the collaboration with the craftsmen and women.

Design by Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

5. Amongst your many achievements includes being made Ambassador of the Human Rights Organization in 2008. What has been your favorite achievement in the course of your career to date?

This has been my greatest achievement, I am so proud of the work Survival does its so vitally important, it is David and Goliath – the voiceless and invisible people of the world who’s rights have been for so long abused have in Survival a voice that shouts loud and clear to the public and to governments and large developers who in the name of ‘progress’ destroy the land and homes of the tribes people who live and protect that land for future generations.

6. What inspired your latest collection?

My latest collection in Afghanistan was inspired by both Mogul and Mongol – the first Mogul Emperors came from Afghanistan and their almost baroque use of gems and gold has inspired the Shah collection full of beautiful tumbled mixed gems stones, blues and watery greens of aquamarine and kunzite, the hot pinks of rubelits and greens of emeralds in cascading necklaces with silver gold plated to give warmth and richness to the pieces.

The other side was inspired by the nomadic Mongols who travelled through Afghanistan and the use of the woven silks of the country to stitch lapis stones to create chokers and wrist bands in silk as I imagine the marauding nomads to have worn.

Always, the collections are fundamentally about something beautiful – to bring beautiful jewels out of a country at war to show that life still goes on and war is not the only thing to be going on there.

7. How important are seasonal trends to you, with reference to the creation of your designs?

Not at all!!

Design by Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

8. Your jewellery seemingly possesses a traditional aesthetic to it. Would you stay this was the case and if so is it intentional?

I am very inspired by ancient classical Greek, roman, campucian, Javanese gold work as well as tribal andethnic work, there is so much symbolic value as jewellery was then to perform a function, to protect from evil and draw positivity, good health and wealth. I love when jewellery has a story – it makes so much sense to me!

Design by Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

9. Who is the Pippa Small woman?

She is independent, creative and has a strong social conscious – to be able to buy and wear pieces that are empowering people in areas of the world which lack the opportunities we are used to here is something she is proud of. She is chic and discerning and has great style.

10. One jewellery tip for my readers?

Buy jewellery that you will love forever and wear it all the time, not just for special occasions, let it become part of you end enjoy it. Check the sources of the materials and when you can, chose sustainable sources.

Design by Pippa Small. Courtesy of Pippa Small.

More on her work here.

Many kind thanks to Pippa Small.

More in the Focus On segment here.

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Daisy Knights’s Wise Collection

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011


Daisy Knights. Image courtesy of Daisy Knights.

Daisy Knights has a knack for crafting jewelry that is unassuming but memorable. Her simple but effective luxury pieces first started creating a buzz when Knights was still studying at Central St Martins. She progressed from selling pieces whilst still at college to opening her own studio. Her work is ethically aware, sourced and handmade in Britain. Fans of her designs include Rihanna, Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Laura Bailey and Kate Moss.

I was honored to interview Daisy in the recent past as seen here. It was thus a pleasure to interview her again about her new ten piece collection called Wise.

1. What inspired your ‘Wise’ collection which features anchors?

My father is a sailor, he recently retired and spends all his time tinkering on his boat. The story of these pieces is the jolly sailor and the evil pirate, the black onyx and red garnet being the evil pirate and the turquoise and crushed coral being the jolly sailor.

2. There is seemingly an ethnic feel to the color palette of some of the beaded anchor pieces. Would you say that it is the case and if so was it an intentional design pre-thought?

Yes, this was inspired by some of the artifacts in the Pitt rivers museum, particularly some of the African pieces and the colours. I spend a lot of time drawing in this Oxford museum.


Anchor bracelet by Daisy Knights. Image courtesy of Daisy Knights.

3. What is your personal favorite piece from the collection?

The statement necklaces, i like to wear them together. I’m always about the layering.


Anchor earrings by Daisy Knights. Image courtesy of Daisy Knights.

4. What jewellery trends are you liking lately?

I’m loving the mix of metals that people are seeming less scared to do now!


Anchor ring by Daisy Knights. Image courtesy of Daisy Knights.

5. Why the anchor collection is a must buy?

It is a great representation if my signature pieces from the 4 charm necklace to the wrap around ring. But also with some cool new statement things that are a first for me!

More on Daisy Knights work here.

Kind thanks to Daisy.

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24 Hours In The Life // Natalie Hartley

Monday, March 21st, 2011


Photo Credit: Natalie Hartley.

As senior fashion editor at InStyle Magazine UK, Natalie Hartley’s days are non stop. Her work for newstand favourite, InStyle magazine is well respected within the industry.

I am honored to share a day in the life of the innately stylish and very busy senior editor with you.

Read on for a day in her life. I absolutely adored reading it and know you will too.

9am

Photo Credit: Natalie Hartley.

Start my day at home and have to prepare for a video diary shoot for the InStyle website for London Fashion Week about what I wear during the shows so have taken clothes home to try on outfits. The videos will be filmed at my flat so will keep my chosen outfits there once I have selected them.

10.30am

Photo Credit: Natalie Hartley.

Head in a taxi to work.

11am

Photo Credit: Natalie Hartley.

Arrive at work and have a shoot to prep for. The clothes have already been selected from look books and appointments so I go through the rail and put together my outfits.

12pm
Quick meeting with the editor to show her the models that I want to use for the shoot.

1pm
The photographer comes in to discuss our ideas for the shoot and run through the rail of clothes with him.

2pm
Carry on putting my outfits together.

4pm
Interviewing for a new senior fashion assistant so head to a room with the fashion director for 2 interviews.

5.15pm


Photo Credit: Natalie Hartley.

Send out final emails for last minute samples for my shoot and then head to karla otto for late end of day press apptointment to pick some things out for me to wear during one of the other fashion weeks.

6.15pm
Stick on some red lipstick and head to soho house for a meeting with a new photographer am wanting to shoot with for InStyle.

8pm
Head home for a relaxing night as another busy day tomorrow!

Being a bit of workaholic myself, I like back to back Natalie’s day is. The creative work never stops, she is either in the middle of executing it preparing for it.

The first things that caught my attention when I first her was her warm personality, layered rings, style and incredible hair.

You have got to admire how her hair is effortlessly exuding punk meets rock star in the photos.

I think her leopard print bag has just kicked my new animal print obsession up a notch.

Visit Natalie’s blog here.

Visit InStyle magazine UK here.

Many kind thanks to Natalie for taking the time to document a day in her life.

Read all the other fabulous features in the 24 Hours in the Life series here.

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Five Minutes With // Elizabeth Tan

Thursday, March 17th, 2011


Photo: Elizabeth Tan

I was honored to share an interview with Elizabeth Tan. The beautiful British actress of Chinese descent has a repertoire that spans the scope of film, theater and television.

The talented and well spoken actress shared her thoughts on fashion week, her current role in British TV soap, ‘Coronation Street’ and more.

Read on for the conversation with her.

1. What are you working on at the moment?

I’m currently playing a new character called “Xin” on Coronation Street. It’s so different from any of the characters I’ve played on other TV dramas such as Doctor Who, Hustle, New Tricks, Spooks or Hotel Babylon.

2. You were spied at London fashion week, what were your favourite shows?

I definitely have a soft spot for Christopher Kane and I also really like Jonathan Saunders. I loved the cut and tailoring from Bora Aksu’s collection, but deep down my favourite accessories are shoes! I love Nicholas Kirwood and really like the direction Camilla Skovgaard has gone in this season.

3. What’s your must-have fashion item?

A good bag always does the trick! You can’t go wrong with a Celine or a really worn-in vintage Birkin.

4. What’s your pet fashion peeve?

I don’t really have one! Although I think people should always dress for themselves and not for anyone else..

5. Most likely to wear?

Dresses, I love dresses! Right now I have my eye on a few by David Koma and Lulu & Co’s designers.

6. What does the future hold for Elizabeth Tan?

Who knows? I definitely would like to do a few more US and UK feature films and a lot more West End theatre….

Visit Elizabeth’s site here.

Many kind thanks to Elizabeth Tan.

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24 Hours In The Life // Zara Martin

Wednesday, December 8th, 2010


Photo Credit: Zara Martin.

Zara Martin is a talent to watch. The beautiful presenter and model (face of luxury shoe label Mechante of London, face of fashion label BodyAmr and brand ambassador of French shoe website, Sarenza) recently turned designer when she collaborated with glamorous fashion house BodyAmr on a 7 piece capsule collection. It was shown alongside their mainline at their London fashion week spring summer 2011 show. Below is a photo of Zara in one of the designs from the capsule collection.


Photo Credit: Zara Martin in dress by BodyAmr & Zara Martin. Image by Fashion designer Amr of BodyAmr

It is no wonder that she has been featured in an array of press including the likes of Vogue India, Marie Claire UK, Tatler, Grazia, Glossy magazine, WWD, The Independent, Company magazine, ELLE, Vanity Fair, Cellardoor magazine, LOOK magazine, OK magazine etc.

A few months ago she kindly documented a business trip to LA for Mariankihogo.com as seen here.

It made for some fun reading, I had to get her to document another day in her busy life.

Read on for 24 hours in the life of Zara Martin.

7:30am
Rise and shine. And by shine, I mean the obligatory half an hour snooze. I can already tell it’s going to be a long day.

8:30am
I always start the day with a STRONG coffee. This morning I pick one up from Starbucks on my way to the gym.

10:00am
After a quick jog on the treadmill, I’m showered, changed and being ‘blown-dry’ by my hairdresser whilst checking out the new super-exciting addition to my website. My capsule collection in collaboration with BodyAmr is now available to order through www.zaramartin.com! YAY! Check it out!

11:00am
Phone interview with Coutts Woman magazine as Coutts & Co are sponsoring London Fashion Weekend this coming February, which I have just been confirmed to host for the second season running.

12:00pm
I am an ambassador for French shoe website, Sarenza and I’ve got to make it to Paris today for an event they are hosting this evening. However, with the current weather situation this is proving mighty problematic. All Eurostar trains to Paris have been cancelled or delayed so I am in a car, on way to City airport.

13:00pm
Arrive at airport. Super stressed that I may not even make it – major delays. Consider knocking back a few of the Black Label’s that are being passed out. Note to self: Must travel from this airport more often, so many hotties!

18:00pm
Finally arrive in Paris, quick stop at the hotel to freshen up. Throw on my J Brand black skinny jeans that I live in, Equipment shirt, Barbara Bui boots and DLUX Collections shearling coat to combat the cold!

19:30pm

Photo Credit: Image by Zara Martin.

At this point I have no idea where I am – the venue is crazy! Huge and covered in graffiti – perfect for a massive party, which I’m feeling this night is going to turn into…

20:00pm

Photo Credit: Zara Martin. Image by Alexis Capron.

Press call – some photos and interviews. (Yes, I am holding a picture of the Queen. Don’t ask.)

21:00pm
The Sarenza high heel race begins! (Sarenza is basically the ASOS of France and specializes in footwear. The high heel race is a competition they put on each year where teams compete for a ridiculous amount of free shoes!)

23:00pm
After some fun time ‘working’ I am now en route to a very late dinner at Hotel Costes, one of my favourite places in Paris.

1:00am

Photo Credit: Image by Zara Martin.

Finally in my Parisian bed! Can’t wait to catch some zzzz’s before my flight back to London in the morning. Fingers crossed it’s not cancelled.

I think I hate snow.

I think it is refreshing that despite the obvious Zara is incredibly busy with all the projects that she is involved, that she still has a sense of excitement about everything she does.

Just looking at the image of of the venue makes me dizzy from the sheer scale of it. I love the idea of the Sarenza high heel race, how much fun would that be?

My favourite image has to be the press call shot of Zara holding the image of the Queen, all in a days work!

What was your favourite part of her day?

Visit her addictive blog here.

See the BodyAmr & Zara Martin capsule collection here.

Stop by her site here.

Many kind thanks to Zara for sharing a day in her life.

Read all the other fabulous features in the 24 Hours in the Life series here.

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24 Hours In The Life // Deborah Lyons of Mechante of London

Friday, October 29th, 2010

Footwear designer, Deborah Lyons (featured in above image) of Méchante of London is known for shoes that juxtapose fashion forward futurism and sophisticated femininity.

Lyons studied art in London, Florence, and Paris followed by fashion design at Parsons University, New York. Méchante of London shoes are bold in colour, luxurious with fine Italian craftsmanship and a timeless aesthetic. The collage above features designs from her autumn winter 2010 collection.

Apart from her main line, she has also designed collection shoes for the likes of fashion designer, William Tempest.

It was an honour when she agreed to document a day in her life for the 24 Hours In The Life series. segment.

Read on for a day in her life.

6.45 am
My alarm goes off at Villa Goetzen in Dola. A charming little house hotel on the river in the heart of the Veneto shoe region. Its still dark outside and requires every inch of will power I have to get up.

7.15 am
Having stopped drinking coffee about a year ago (it seemed like the easiest of my many vices to lose) I make an exception this morning. Partly because the wake up is far too early and the red wine last night too excessive, but mostly because a real Italian cappuccino at breakfast is totally irresistible. Mulling over some oven fresh bread with jam, I’m shifting through the sketches for FW11 making some last minute additions and changes.

8am
At 8am the car comes to pick us up and take us to the factory where the owner Eddy is waiting for us. Eddy is a pattern maker by training and has produced for a number of luxury brands including Alaia and Sergio Rossi. She has a wealth of experience in all things shoe related.

After going through all the designs for Mechante main line and Mechante for William Tempest together, we start to break them down by style. Shoes are all built on a form called a laste and every shoe requires its own laste and heel. Getting the laste right is probably the most important stage in development process and also the most time consuming part. It is therefore our first priority of the day.

10 am

By 10 am we’re in the laste factory. Built on 2 floors, downstairs is the factory floor where all the lastes are made, upstairs is an archive of every laste the factory has made in the past decade. Forming an incredibly visual time line in shoe history, a walk a long the floor details how footwear fashion has changed over the years.

Midday. After a couple of hours we’re ready to move on to the heel makers, another mecca for shoe designers. Browsing around here we spot some easily recognizable Givenchy wedges, Balenciaga heels, and Vuitton platforms. With a pretty firm idea of what we’re looking for however we’re in and out quite quickly and on to my favourite part of the Italian day… Lunch!

1pm
From 1-3pm every day of the year Italy has its ‘siesta’ time. All the shops are closed, all the factories vacated. The restaurants however are buzzing during these 2 hours, packed with locals, most of whom are in the industry. Eddy stops at various tables as we navigate our way through introducing me to exotic skin suppliers, sole makers, zip makers, other factory owners, and even a few family members.

After an enormous and very leisurely lunch of pasta, salads, grilled vegetables, and far too much bread and olive oil, we sit outside in the afternoon sunshine while Eddy nurses a single espresso and tells tales of her travels around the world. Eddy is a true explorer and at every chance she gets she’s off somewhere exotic. She has hundreds of stories from thousands of places.

3pm

Finally its time to get back to work and its straight over to the leather suppliers to see if we missed anything from last weeks leather fair at Linea Pelle in Milan.

From the incredibly alluring smell of leathers to the colours, textures, and sheer number of varieties, this is truly a sensory experience on every level. We see everything from Kangaroo to Crocodile and eventually pick up a few swatches of amazing lazer cut leathers, an array of different coloured eel skins, a few shades of python in this incredible rubber coated finish, and a couple options of some stunning treated leathers.

4.30 pm
By now its time to go back to the factory for a quick days debrief. We have an hour to revisit the designs and make any necessary changes or notes in line with what we’ve seen before I have to leave for the airport so its all a bit of a rush. Fortunately Eddy’s now used to what she calls “the New Yorker” in me, blackberry addict and all, and takes it in her stride. We set a date for my return when the heels and lastes will have arrived and we’ll be ready to start working on the patterns. By 6pm I’m in back in the car heading to Venice airport feeling the usual mix of anticipation and relief… another season under way.

6.45 pm
Venice airport is the only airport I’m actually happy to spend time at. Home to the best mozzarella and tomato panini I’ve ever had (yes more eating) and a mini la perla boutique its a surprisingly chic little haven.

Smelling like a new shoe and covered in scraps of leather, I set myself up at the gate. Panini in one hand, large glass of red wine in the other, and”The Inbetweeners” on my laptop.

9.30 pm
Back in the UK and in serious airport mode, I rush through passport control as fast as my Mechante’s will take me. Practically falling through the doors of the Gatwick express I’m feeling accomplished and very ready for my bed.

Where would a girl be without her favourite pairs of high heels? I like that Deborah’s day takes us behind the scenes into how her shoes come about.It is such a feat how much she gets done over the course of her documented day! I particularly like the images of the shoe lastes.

Kind thanks to Deborah for sharing a day in her life.

Visit Méchante of London here.

All images courtesy of Deborah Lyons.

Read all the other fabulous features in the 24 Hours in the Life series here.

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Five Minutes With // Daisy Knight

Friday, October 29th, 2010

Daisy Knights’ jewellery features miniature skull, shell, ball studded and feather designs in 22 karat gold vermeil, oxidised silver and sterling silver.

The skull pieces have a feminine endearing quality. The designer cites nature, punk and rock ’n’ roll as influences for her work.

She founded her line while studying at London’s renowned Central Saint Martins College. The pieces are handmade using ethically mined gold and recycled silver.

I was honoured to interview Daisy (as seen in image above0, on her work and the nuances in between.

1. Hi Daisy, thank you for the interview. What inspired you to start your label while at college?

I always knew I wanted to be a jewellery designer and make pieces that were wearable and affordable, so I just decided to get on with it while I was at college and started my company in my spare time! I also wanted to have more than just my Central Saint Martin’s education when I got out of college; I wanted to have more of a stamp on the industry than just being a graduate. Paul & Joe were one of the first to sell my jewellery while I was still studying, and dealing with retailers in a business situation was a huge education for me too!


Daisy Knights Gold Vermeil studded wrap ring

2. Who is the Daisy Knights girl?

She is intelligent, strong, independent but also feminine, not afraid to mix metals and makes every look her own

3. If my readers were to purchase one piece from your collection which would you suggest?

The feather ring (from the Lornie collection) is my signature piece that sums up the Daisy Knights woman


Daisy Knights Oxidised Silver feather ring

4. If you were not a jewellery designer you would be?

I would probably be a sailor. But I have wanted to be a jewellery designer since I was 11, and in my heart I always knew it would happen so I didn’t really leave any other options open!

5. One great jewellery tip?

Don’t abide by ‘rules’ when wearing jewellery, go ahead and mix metals (gold & silver) and wear as much as you want! I always wear a tonne of jewellery when going through airport security and when I surf, I don’t think there is an inappropriate time to layer it up!

6. Why skulls?

The skull collection is inspired and named after my friend from Central Saint Martin’s, Kim. She was a bit of a punk but is so beautiful and delicate. Her hair is always a different colour, sometimes shaved, but she always maintained a really lady-like attitude which I love! so I designed some really girly but not kitsch skulls.


Daisy Knights Gold Vermeil skull bracelet

7. When you are not designing jewellery you can be found?
With my boyfriend and our dog Ace Ventura Pet Detective (ace for short) at home in the Cotswolds or most likely in the pub, either the Falcon in Poulton or the Village Pub in Barnsley

8. Which celebrities would you like to see in your pieces?
I don’t really design my pieces with celebrities in mind, but I’m lucky enough to have some very stylish ladies as fans. An early fan of mine was Lady Amanda Harlech, who works closely with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. Since then Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe and Poppy Delevigne have all bought pieces. It’s exciting when someone who’s style I admire wears my jewellery.

9. One random thing from your week?

My boyfriend just booked us a holiday to Cuba!


Daisy Knights Gold Vermeil antler necklace

10. The first piece of jewellery you ever designed was?

I made a ring for my friend Katie for her 13th birthday, it was a ring with a little silver flower on. She had to have it removed from her finger in the emergency room as it was so small for her, but she still has it today!

12. If your house was on fire, which jewellery piece would you save and why?

My grandmothers wedding ring that I always wear, my mother (Lornie) gave it to me for my 21st, it is my most precious piece of jewellery to me. I would also grab my dog and my favourite Mattthew Williamson dress!

13. Daisy Knights’s jewellery is synonymous with?

Nothing, there isn’t anything like Daisy Knights jewellery, its unique!


Daisy Knights tie bracelet with sterling silver skull

Click here for the Daisy Knights collection.

Kind thanks to Daisy.

All images courtesy of Daisy Knights.

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Focus On // Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk By Iain R Webb

Monday, October 25th, 2010


Cover Image taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

Iain R Webb’s ‘Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk’ is a personal photographic portfolio that spans 30 years of iconic catwalk moments and all the glamorous uproar surrounding it.
A collection of intimate images taken by Webb, from the front row at couture and ready to wear shows, memories captured at hard to access fashion events and all the glitter of the fashion world.

I reviewed the 272 page book in my ‘On the Coffee Table’ segment here.

I was honoured to interview fashion journalist and lecturer, Iain R Webb (as featured in below image) whose career has including working as fashion editor at The Times, ELLE and Blitz.


Photo of Iain R Webb. Photography by Iain R Webb. Courtesy of Iain R Webb.

1. Hello Iain, thank you for taking the time out to grant this interview. ‘Postcards from the edge of the catwalk’ takes its reader beyond the velvet rope at hard to access ready to wear and couture shows across a span of 3 decades. What gave you the presence of mind to capture these wonderful and many never seen before images?

Hello Marian. Thanx for inviting me to talk about my new book. To tell the truth the book is a bit of a happy accident. I never imagined this kind of outcome when I was snapping away at the shows. I have always taken photographs – at the collections, on fashion shoots and at parties – as a kind of visual diary I guess. It was a way of documenting the weird and wonderful situations that I was lucky to find myself in as fashion editor of Blitz, The Times and Elle magazine. Some of these photographs were occasionally published over the years.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

2. How did your personal portfolio of the fleeting magic of the catwalk turn into this must have book?

‘Must have’. I like that. While I was working on my last book ‘Foale and Tuffin. The Sixties. A Decade in Fashion’, I pitched the idea of a postcard-style photo book to my commissioning editor Matthew Freedman at ACC Publishing Group. The format was inspired by the way I had the photographs processed at Snappy Snaps. They would be printed like holiday snaps and I would make little photocopy layouts. I wanted the book to show some of the wonderful moments I have experienced. Luckily Matthew and his team were equally excited by the project.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

3. What was the process of compiling it like for you?

The hardest thing for me was deciding what would go into the book. I am a habitual hoarder so my archive of source material is vast – I have hung onto all sorts of odds and sods picked up along the way from invitations and notes from designers to shoot schedules and sketchbooks stashed away in folders, boxes and suitcases. They aren’t particularly organised either although this is something I am now trying to sort out. So, at first I had to locate photos that I knew I had, unearth negatives for prints that remained hidden and then go about identifying designers, locations and seasons. I kept increasing the number of photographs I wanted to include and fortunately my publisher was happy to up the page count. But I still had to edit at least half of my original selection. I am happy with the final edit but I am still finding photos that I wish I could have included!


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

4. Your book captures some of the most important moments in fashion, what are your favourite images in it?

This changes all the time. I like different pictures for different reasons. I really like the straightforward nature of many of the portraits – the lucky one-in-a-million shot of Gwyneth Paltrow at the Gaultier show (page 58) or the happy-snap mood of Isabella Blow sparkling in iceberg size jewels (page 35). I really like the more obscure images of the catwalk shows – the picture of a model exiting Yves Saint Laurent’s catwalk, in her beaded lace and pink feather hat she merges into the floral bower decorating the stage (page 237), the line-up of McQueen models on page 235 or Jacquetta’s legs at Helmut Lang (page 46 as seen below). I also love the Gaultier cowboys on page 160. That was a WILD (West) show!


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R.Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

5. Seeing that the images span 30 years of fashion change and evolution, would it be fair to say it was a photographic document of fashion history?

Gosh, that makes it sound a bit grand! The book definitely documents a part of the fashion experience – the craziness that surrounds the international collections. And I suppose it is a personal history.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

6. How are you hoping for the book to be received by the fashion industry and fashion enthusiasts at large?

I am thrilled with how people have already responded so warmly to my book. It has received great coverage in the press and there have been some very enthusiastic reviews. One reviewer said a more appropriate title for the book might be ‘A Love Letter from the Edge of the Catwalk’. I really like that. I would like to think that it is an affectionate reminder for those who were there and hopefully an inspiration for those who were not.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R.Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

7. What do you think constitutes to making a memorable catwalk show experience?

A lot of people think that a memorable catwalk moment must mean a big bells-and-whistles production. While I have adored the shows of Galliano and McQueen and Mugler and Kenzo before them (and count myself lucky to have seen such amazing staging free of charge!) I also believe that a low-key presentation can be equally compelling. Rei Kawakubo sometimes shows her Comme des Garcons collections in complete silence. Sometimes the over-emphasis on hair, make-up, accessories and staging can detract from the frocks (the designers intention?!!). When designers get it right the production is an extended narrative that showcases their wonderful frocks. But small and quiet can be more beautiful. And the flick of a models wrist or the drape of a neckline can be equally memorable.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

8. What is your most treasured catwalk/backstage memory to date and why?

Goodness, there have been so many! Fashion is very subjective. I guess I treasure the more intimate things. From Art School onwards I have been incredibly lucky to meet so many fabulous people who share the same fascination with frocks. Getting to know people whose work I admire – designers, writers, photographers, etc – has been a real gift.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

9. The photo captions truly bring each image to life. How did you go about writing these?

What surprised me most was how I could almost instantly recognise a dress from twenty odd years ago especially considering how many dresses I must have seen during my career. I used my show notebooks and PR contacts to confirm dates and also referred to magazines and websites to double-check. At times it was like an Agatha Christie mystery. Indeed there are a couple of photographs that have no captions because no matter how I tried I could not discover the designer, date or location. I love the Index section – it looks like a book in its own right. Simon Cryer of Northbank Design who designed the book did a brilliant job with the layouts.


Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R. Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

10. One reason why ‘Postcards from the edge of the catwalk’ is a must for every coffee table?
For anyone who is a fashion freak like me, it’s the perfect Christmas gift!
Thanx
Iain x


Photography by Iain R Webb. Courtesy of Iain R Webb.

Postcards From The Edge Of The Catwalk By Iain R Webb is published by ACC Editions, priced £24.95 and available from all good bookshops and online at www.accpublishinggroup.com

More information on the book here.

Images taken from Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk By Iain R.Webb. Published by ACC Editions.

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